How to V-carve
V-carving cuts with a V-shaped bit that goes deeper where the shape is wider, so letters and art get crisp, sharp corners that an end mill can't make. Here's how to set it up.
1. Pick the bit angle
The angle decides how deep the bit goes for a given width. Depth = half the width ÷ tan(half the angle):
| Bit | Depth for a ½ in wide stroke | Good for |
|---|---|---|
| 30° | 0.93 in | Fine detail, small text |
| 60° | 0.43 in | Most sign lettering |
| 90° | 0.25 in | Large or bold text, faster cuts |
| 120° | 0.14 in | Shallow, wide strokes |
2. Flat bottoms for wide areas
Wide shapes would make the V-bit go very deep. Set a flat depth: the V-bit stops there and an end mill (the clearance tool) clears the flat floor, while the V-bit still cuts the sharp edges.
3. Start depth and inlays
A V-carve inlay is two parts: a female pocket in the base board and a male plug carved from a second board, mirrored. The male's start depth leaves a glue gap so the plug presses in tight. In GCarve the Inlay toolpath makes both from one design.
4. Check before you cut
Simulate the job in 3D, then run an air cut (all Z raised above the board) on the first job with a new bit or machine. GCarve's export also checks for rapids inside the material and cuts into the spoilboard.
How GCarve does it
GCarve follows the true medial axis (the centre line of each stroke), so depth always matches width, corners stay sharp, and the bit stays down within a shape.
Try it on your own job: GCarve is free and runs in your browser.
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